New Route at Highside

Attict Grade 27 **, 7 bolts w/DBA, 15m
Right angling feature with steep face climbing on good quality rock.
- Greg Johnston '09

This route is just right of Blue Meanie and left of Daydreams and Fantasies. It starts up on the ledge at a double bolt anchor. The climbing is technical and a bit pumpy. Once I got past the intimidation factor and the swooping falcons, the fix was smooth and satisfying, possibly like a shot of methadone. But, like all good junkies, I might be a bit delusional. The route is pretty short so it is most likely a 'gimme' for the grade. But remember, a 'true Wanaka on-sight' grade is one with no beta, no draws, no chalk, no tick marks and of course the requisite amount of grit and grime to keep the most tenacious over gripping while in search for those elusive holds.

Give it a go.

someone has my stuff

over the winter i have been developing the far right hand end of the bake house putting in an epic amount of work to provide the people of wanaka with a great crag for the mid teen climber. when we have finished it, it will be great with a landscaped bottom to create a shady spot for all to enjoy (its a bit of a mess in there at the moment but i will sort that very soon).

any way  i went over there this morning  (6/9/09) to collect my stash of kit as were coming into lambing and i don't want to up set the farmer only to discover that someone has taken the lot including an irreplaceable hammer, petzl chair, helmet, rope, bolts etc 

i can't help thinking that it has to be a climber because who else would be wondering around over there?

i have made some inquires and understand that a minibus of student aged people were there on thursday and that at least one person was seen walking in that area (might be nothing)

 

some one has to know something 

i only want my stuff back no questions asked

if any one knows anything please contact me on 0211235056

Richard Tribe

Motatapu Crag Closed

Unfortunately, due to the location of this cliff within a prominent deer farm, Motatapu Crag is closed indefinitely.

Cattle Yard Crag

Before the crags got totally soaked with this Winter's rain, I adventured up to the Cattle Yard Crag to check out the potential of this rarely visited crag. Also, I wanted to see what Ed Liddle and company accomplished with their effort to fix up the old school anchors.

After a heap of bush wacking and a few wrong turns, I arrived at the base of the main wall surprised at the size of the wall and the quality of the rock . I decided the area was definitely worth the effort and so began the long march of spending several days re-cutting the track, re-bolting many of the old classic routes with stainless trubolts, exploring and adding three new routes of my own.

From the car park opposite West Wanaka Road, find the access track at the far end of the cattle yard. Hang a left and walk up the steep hill that is now really obvious to follow and really well marked with waratahs and cairns.

New Routes

17 Butt Crack Wedgy, 20m, 6 bolts with DBA
Climbs the obvious crack and face feature between Heli Beli and Bathroom Refugee, an excellent warm up route for the crag, Greg Johnston '09

23 Schistose Intolerance, 20m, 7 bolts with DBA
Climb through the hole right of Gorillas In The Schist, the route climbs excellent rock up a short slab to a bulge and a steep sustained headwall face, probably 2 or 3 stars, Greg Johnston '09

21 Merry Schistmas, 20m, 7 bolts with DBA
Right of Schistose Intolerance, climb a short slab then venture up a corner crack and arete. The climbing is very tricky, steep and pretty intense for the grade. Greg Johnston '09

Hap Hazard

Anybody that has climbed Hap Hazard at Sunnyside will have gingerly climbed past the precariously perched, semi detached, ginormous and fully hazardous huge chunk of rock just sitting there waiting to dismember, mame or otherwise hurt some unsuspecting climber enjoying their day off in the warm sun. Or worse, smash the poor sod holding his or her rope.

Worry no longer, Greg and Glen picked a wet day out to see just how precarious this bit of rock really was. Well, it was very precarious. We took the heavy bar and a not so heavy bar and made very short work of leavering a good 5 tons of rock off the route and on to the track. Phew, glad that is done. Well, there is still a bit of dirt to clean off and we need to add a bolt and the track is a bit un-tidy.

If you happen to climb the route anytime soon, enjoy.

Meeting Minutes and Outcome of DoC Meeting

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club Inc and
Department of Conservation, Wanaka Area Office Meeting

18th March 2008

MINUTES

In Attendance:
Wanaka Rock Club - Greg Johnston, Guy Cotter, Nick Craddock, Glenn Einam and Jessica Eyers, DOC - Paul Hellebrekers and Annette Smith.

Pre-meeting

The department accepts the written submission from Wanaka Rock Climbing Club and will address the contents in the agenda. The department acknowledges that rock climbing is an established and legitimate recreational pursuit in the area.

1. Welcome & previous minutes – no issues raised.

2. Matukituki Operation Plan -

Paul gave the group an overview of the new operational plan which represents the Otago Conservancy policy guide for staff undertaking management decisions in relation to Ngai Tahu values within the Hospital Flat & Diamond Lake Conservation Areas. The group was given part copy of the plan specific to rock climbing activity and the implications to the club were discussed. It was noted that an issue should only occur if a burial or other culturally significant feature is found.

Action: Annette to forward Greg full copy of Matukituki Operational Plan.

3. The establishment of new Climbing Sites

The group agreed that the definition of a ‘new climbing site’ was covered adequately in the minutes from the Oct 2005 meeting, that being:
‘A new site was seen as place where no routes or crags presently exist/have been established. A new route that’s between 2 existing routes (within a reasonable/practical distance) was not seen as a new area/site in relation to this requirement.’

The process to obtain approval for new sites was discussed. Initially, the club is to write to DOC, by letter or email, giving location and details of proposal. Paul outlined his responsibilities in regards to then inspecting the site and consulting with Ngai Tahu before a decision can be made. It is anticipated that the process will be relatively straightforward unless there are significant conservation and/or culture values in the specific area/site.

It was acknowledge that the club has limited control in enforcing this process on non-members.

Action: Annette to provide overview map showing main rocking climbing areas.
Action: Greg to mark existing crags/ routes and proposed crags on maps provided and return to DOC by 18th April 2009.
Action: Paul to advise NZAC of the process for establishing new rocking climbing sites.
Action: The club is to ensure that the new Wanaka Rock guide book explains process and that map showing boundaries of conservation lands used for rock climbing is included. Doc to provide detail for the new book as required.

4. Access Paths – marking and maintenance.

Paul asked that entrance to rock climbing areas off the Diamond Lake track not be emphasized - Simple rock cairns to be used rather than signage unless issues arise. The department could provide markers and signage to assist the club in marking main entrance points and site access track within the Hospital Flat Conservation Area.

Paul requested that discussions take place with the department prior to club members cutting any vegetation from around new potential sites or significant vegetation clearance on/to existing sites.

Action: Paul to arrange meeting with club members to assess placement of track markers and track maintenance requirements. (Confirmed for 30th March @ 9am)

5. Bolting standards

Bolting guidelines from NZAC and draft Mt Cook/ Westland National Parks policy were tabled.

Greg showed examples of galvanized and stainless steel bolts used in the local rock climbing areas. He stated that bolting by club members was to a high standard and that they were pro-active in replacing the older style bolts. The club is working under the umbrella of the NZAC bolting guidelines although specific to the rock type in this area.

All parties agreed that the NZAC Bolting Policy of 2005 still applies.

Guy raised the point that educational institutes and non-members using the facilities provided by the club did not contribute financially.

6. Dogs in rock climbing areas

Annette stated that dogs were permitted on Hospital Flat, Mt Iron, Roadside and Riverside conservation lands. However, dogs were not permitted in Diamond Lake Conservation Area.

The Club to raise the issue of dogs in the Hospital Flat area with their members to establish whether is it suitable to have dogs on site while climbing.

Action: Paul to arrange DOC No Dog sign on the eastern boundary of Diamond Lake Conservation Area.

7. Fencing of Eastern Boundary of Diamond Lake Conservation Area.

The boundary line was discussed with members as there were concerns that they were encroaching on private property to reach some of the rock climbing sites.

Action: Paul to check surveyed peg line and contact John McRae regarding dogs and public access across the paddock. Paul to report findings back to club.


8. DOC’s 2009/10 proposed work programme

Paul advised the group that a circuit track around Diamond Lake was to be developed this winter. No other works planned near the rock climbing areas.

9. Establishment of new climbing resources in Mt Iron Scenic Reserve

The club expressed an interest to further develop rock climbing within the Mt Iron Scenic Reserve. Paul stated that DOC’s view had not changed in regards to Mt Iron crags being extended to above the walking track on the eastern side. The current rock climbing crags below the track had some minor issues, ie impact on local residents, however rock climbing to be continued. Mt Iron’s main focus of activity is the 60,000 plus walkers using the area. Guy felt that additional sites should be addressed as the current limited area does not attract climbers. Nick commented that the loose rock on Mt Iron could be an issue.

Group agreed to park this issue until matters in other rock climbing areas have been addressed.

Action: Paul to erect a sign on the walking track above the rock climbing area advising the public not to throw rocks over the edge.

10. General items

Pest Control – Glenn commented that possum numbers had increased substantially in the rock climbing areas. Paul advised that no pest control programmes planned for these areas.

Motatapu River 4WD – Paul advised group that he had received feedback that rock climbers were accessing rock climbing areas – Lost World/ Dummyside – by 4WD through private property from the Motatapu River. Group stated that this was a low use area by members.

Camping – Freedom camping near rock climbing areas – especially Riverside – has continued to be an issue. Paul advised group that adjoining landowners were very concerned due to the fire risk. Members to be mindful and move campers on if sighted.

Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) - Club to consider MOU with DOC for clear guidelines to be established.

Action: Club to advise by 18 April 2009 if they require a draft to be drawn up to consider.

New Crag on West Wanaka Bluffs

Cliff Richard Crag

Access: Once at Hospital Flat, take the West Wanaka road turnoff and travel over the bridge that crosses the Matukituki river. Park in the open paddock near the DOC sign for the West Wanaka Bluffs Conservation Area. From the sign, Walk uphill through a grass paddock for approximately 50 meters and look out for the marked track. Walk uphill through the bush for about 10 minutes to the base of the crag.

From right to left:

Hip-rock-racy – Grade 24 *** - Approximately 20 meters with 8 bolts and DBA
Sustained climbing up layback crack and steep face on well textured rock. Greg Johnston 2009

Project – steep and sustained face climbing on well textured rock for half the distance followed by big moves on polished grips to the finish. Rich Tribe

Project – status unknown.

Mantle As Anything – Grade 19 Approximately 15 meters with 7 bolts and DBA
Lots of mantle type moves with a tricky finish. Rich Tribe 2009

Rock Hudson - New Route '09

Tony's Attraction - Grade 17 * - 7 Bolts with DBA - approximately 20 meters - left of CC

A DOC engineer took notice of this beauty and was nice enough to take our names and picture for prosperity.
Russell Braddock and Greg Johnston 2009

The Cutting - Re-bolting and New Routes

New Routes:

The Whole Enchilada - Grade 19 ** - approximately 25 meters - right of HFM
Bolted by visiting climber Fernando who never made the first ascent. Murray Ball, the next climber in line collected the spoils. Go give it a good clean, now, Murray. The middle section of the route needs to have the dirt ledge removed.

All You Can Eat - Grade 18 * - 8 bolts with DBA, approximately 20 meters - right side of the left section with Happy Fat Man
The route climbs through a couple of overlaps with a bit of a slabby finish. Ken Super and Greg Johnston 2009

Downsize Me - Grade 19 * - 8 bolts with DBA, approximately 20 meters - left of Sneka
Don't bight off more than you can chew. A bit of steep climbing followed by some tech slab climbing. Greg Johnston 2009

Huge thanks and kudos go out to ALL who help with the working bee at The Cutting crag.

Significant work has been completed. All of the routes on the left and middle sections are now equipped to a high standard. Tracks and access have all been improved.

fun in the remarks

Dan Jackson and i went for a bit of a mish  in the week and climbed a line  on the east buttress of double cone that has not see a lot of action but well worthy of a look.

i understand the Allan uren has climbed it in winter (nutter) but not in summer and i'm not sure he went the way we did any way no doubt some one will set me strait!

we climbed it in 6 pitches and placed the bolts near our belays on the way down for a user friendly exit :)

start up the first pitch db eh?

 belay then break left onto an easy ledge until you find an old peg and new ring bolt.

 climb up the corner(17+)  (well about a meter left actually) placing small nuts past a sling to twin cracks under a roof and set up a hanging belay.

 climb through the roof (18ish) and continue up and left a short way until you find a bolt (with a leaver beener) and good pro, belay there.

  continue up the slab (13) for 45 m to a natural belay and ring bolt.

 the last pitch is a gentle  cruse left then up until you reach the final bolt with a crab in it you can continue to the top if you want or do 4 raps off 

i believe that up until the hanging belay is called judasis scrote or some thing but above that we have called it nothing as its been done before.

i also understand that Allan plans grid bolt  the area so check it out be for it feels the bosh

Rich t

Open Letter from DOC - Input your Confessions, Feedback and Meeting Issues

It has come to our attention that there has been new rock climbing site/s formed within the Diamond Lake Conservation Area. Of concern is that a recent inspection of this area has revealed new routes, tracking and cutting of vegetation. We ask that the club support their obligations as agreed to at the October 2005 meeting in that written approval is obtained from the department prior to any new sites being established.

The 2005 meeting followed on from the tenure review outcomes for Glendhu Station and was specific to the Hospital Flat and Diamond Lake Conservation Areas. Since this time, tenure review outcomes for Cattle Flat Station have meant that the department also now manage the popular Riverside and Roadside rock climbing areas. It is therefore timely that we arrange a meeting with club representatives to discuss the above matter and to re-visit the terms of agreement for rock climbing sites within the Wanaka Area, including the 2000 Mt Iron Scenic Reserve agreement. This agreement should clearly identify the expectations of both parties and reaffirm the obligations of club members including the consultation process when new routes are established.

Please propose a suitable date/time to meet and suggestions of any issues/ concerns that the group may also wish to discuss. Please note that Paul is on leave from 24 Jan to 16 Feb.

Regards
Annette

Annette Smith
Programme Manager, Community Relations

WRCC AGM 9 Dec 08

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc
AGM 2008
9th Dec 2008

Attendance: Greg Johnston, Jerry Murray-Orr, Ken Super, Murray Ball, Scott Standen, Rich Tribe, Ben Eyers, Jessica Eyers, Russell Braddock, Jon Sedon, Bruce Dowrick. Svenja Stellfeld

Apologies: John Hammond, Ian McNab, Shawn & Nia O'Connor,

Minutes from last AGM: Minutes of ’07 AGM were vaporized and therefore not read and approved but financials were ratified.

Elections: John Hammond resigned as treasurer, Greg Johnston to carry on as President, Jessica E to carry on as secretary, Ken elected to be treasurer.

Treasurer's report:

Financial report is for Oct 2007 – Sept 2008. Given out guide books to Good Sports and Mainly Tramping but still in receivables. (acc receivable about $5000). Mainly Tramping returned 60 guide books as they are selling to slowly. $625 in subs for 2007-2008 (24 members) $1300 in guidebooks. Bolt fund: more than $1000. Gross imcome $3000. $4000 in expenses – Alpine Club and Outsider for gear (hardware), and some costs associated with last year's AGM. Still lots of 12mm bolts – should be mainly used for rebolting the Cutting. Current assets = $2000 in bank, $5000 in guidebooks, hardware $800.

Old business:

Last year's general meeting minutes read and approved.

Approximately 320 guidebooks in stock including returns. Jerry mentioned Elements might need more guidebooks.

All agreed to reduce the guide from $20 to $15. All new members may have a free guidebook. It is the time to shift books this summer. Possible to further reduce guide to cost or below. We will aim to get the highest margin possible to sell all books.

Rich suggested selling on trademe. Go on then Rich.

Access:

Bakehouse and Kai Whaka Pai Areas - signage in place and track marked. Jerry will install stiles.

Highside area loop track is marked but needs additional maintenance.

All crag trail heads are marked.

A number of climbers are taking dogs into Kai Pai area. Dogs are not allowed in this area because it is farm land. Signs are clearly posted. Please do not jeopardize climbing access by bringing your dog/s into this area. Dogs are allowed in DOC recreation reserves but they are not allowed in DOC conservation reserves (Diamond Lake).

Greg suggested that John McRae, DOC and club discuss fencing between private property and DOC property.

Jerry will ask DOC to write the club a letter regarding their position on fencing off the area. Svenja had previously offered to facilitate raising trust and lottery money for this purpose. Could be funding from Central Lakes Trust for this (conservation).

New business:

Scott Standen volunteered to produce the new guide book. He will send out a proposed layout by Janurary 31 st. Jerry will provide Scott with data from old book.

It is agreed the new guide should be printed by the beginning of October. Scott and Anna are keen.

Bruce to research various printing options

Book Ideas:
 Need clearer pictures with clearer better topo lines.
 Icons to describe climbing cliffs (sun/shade, summer/winter, bolts/natural, etc.)
 Need feedback on stars, grades, etc.
 Consolidate and condesnse some areas
 Loads of advertising – good to help pay for guide, needs extra space in book. Murray is keen to help
 Need more good climbing shots – All to try to take and send in photos
 Needs to be stitched and bound – Bruce to research options
 Queenstown guidebook and Alpine club guidebook are good examples. $40 is ok but max.
 Add Tombstone area to bouldering section.
 Examples of good guides – rock fax, blue mountains, boulder

Other new business:

Working bee at Cutting – Saturday 31, January. Meeting, eating and drinking afterwards.

Greg Johnston and Glen Einam are project managers.

Tasks to be completed:
- Replace and/or Fix up Anchors
- Remove existing dyna-bolts, over drill same hole and re-place with 12mm stainless bolts and hangers
-Extend track from Cutting to Falcon Steep
-Add D12 Staples to access areas


The new bolts on Critic’s Choice were chopped, again, by Allen Uren and company. The original route was very, very dirty and rarely climbed. It was certainly not the gem it is today. Additionally, the anchor was very low on the route at about ¼ height of the cliff leaving nearly 75% more cliff and new climbing above the old route. Some feel Allen should spend his time properly cleaning his own routes in the crack house. The group vigorously debated the subject and came to a general consensus that it should be left as a natural line because it is a crack and more bolting followed by more chopping will only make the conservation of rock more difficult

Svenja to chase previous and new members for subs.

Paid Subs:

Ken Super
Jerry Murray-Orr
Greg Johnston
Anna Simmonds
Scott Standon
Bruce Dowrick
Svenja
Russell
Jon Sedon
Ben Eyers
Jessica Eyers

Annual General Meeting 2008

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
Annual General Meeting
Tuesday 9 December, 2008 6:30 pm
Alberttown Tavern Meeting Room

Subs: $15 Students, $25 Adults - Members can buy a climbing guide from the club for an additional $20

A general meeting will follow the AGM to discuss outdoor climbing management, resource conservation and the proposed new guidebook.

New Routes at Whale Watching Wall

(L to R):

Blubber 19 * (Bryan Moore Oct '08, 5 bolts, DBA) Left most line up short black wall right of main wall (left of Beached As). Technical moves up left of groove and through overlap.

Beached As 18 * (Ed Liddle, Oct '08, trad route, shares DBA of Blubber). Left of "Hobo Humping Slobo Babe". Up corner hand crack to rooflet, nice moves around roof.

Ahab 26/27?(feedback please) ** (Thomas van den Berg, Oct '08, 8 bolts, DBA). Start up NTIRW, veer right through bulge and onto headwall. Mint rock, interesting moves.

Moby Dick 25 ** (Thomas van den Berg, Oct '08, 8 bolts, DBA). Start up "10 Boy Scouts" and veer left onto headwall. Thin climbing on great rock.

Exotic Sushi 21 (Josh Greer, Oct '08) - Alternative start to "Via Frittata", step right at the start of VF, traverse out then head up through roof. Very picturesque position. Needs some more cleaning in the roof.

Information posted by Thomas van den Berg

Mt Iron - Next Best Thing Crag

Pump Iron - Grade 21 - 4 bolts and ring anchors.
Located left of Spiral Staircase. It is a good workout at the rock gym. Greg Johnston '08

New Wanaka Guidebook Ideas - Express Your Opinion

The club is currently down to 300 guide books. If they sell at the typical rate, we should be sold out by Summer '09. A new guide is needed for Spring 2010.

The club needs to start thinking through future guide book options. A few informal meetings have revealed ideas listed below. Your input matters, give the club your feedback.

- Do a select guide - best routes on the best crags.

- Do a guide that is less expensive, maybe $20 retail price point. In this case, we need to produce the guide for about $5-$7.50 each.

- Do a separate bouldering guide. Add Tombstone area. Low cost, small run production.

- Go back to the old style guide. Small print/copy run, staple bound, low cost with better b/w photo topos.

- Paper on current guide went bad when damp. It didn't hold up to outside use well, or did it?

- Do a complete guide with more climbing stories related to the routes, crags and history of development.

- Consider a small print run again, 1000 copies @$10 each was a big commitment for the club

- Simplify guide, small, compact, good paper

- More advertising to help pay for publishing cost

Al CAP topo at bloody last.....

AL CAP......

This cliff had been routinely inspected by the hoi palloi of Wanaka climbers over the years. Al's encouragement and clear felling efforts finally unleashed a stampede of bolting and bagging to produce the best new crag since Fearnly freed the Tombstone.

This is a slightly over-hanging wall of uncommonly good schist, nestled in the bush and facing due South providing excellent mid Summer climbing.

Scott and Jon hit their straps late Summer and doubled the number of quality hard routes in Wanaka.

Take the road to West Wanaka and park on the other side of the bridge. Walk upstream beside the river and onto the gravel flats for about 500m. The track is flagged up through the bush for about 150m.

Routes are described from left to right,

1. Niall's project.

2. R.T.D.* 24, (26m) Up same start as N.Proj, move right and straight up.

Brian Alder, Mar 08

3. Huffer* 25, (15m) / Tuffer ***27, (30m) Begin in corner and up tricky thin wall to ring bolt (huffer) or continue on to chains with wild moves and a big fat pump (tuffer)

Jon Seddon, Dec 07

4. Badger** 25, (15m) / Continuous Play *** 27(30m) Same deal. Next line right. Very, very continuous.....

Bruce Dowrick, Dec 07

5. Beardown*** 28, (16m) / Vaso-Constrictor *** 30, (30m) Yet again.... next one Right. Stop at the ring or continue on for the real deal. A years worth of climbing in one pitch.

Scott Standen, Mar 08

6. Tormentum Vigilae *** 30, (30m) Start as for previous route and follow right tending seam to join 'Righteous' at about 20m.... lose sleep looking for the ultimate sequence?

Jon Seddon, April 08

7. Popeye *** 28, (20m) Final route before the block. Straight up through TV on marginal grips. Another Al Cap classic!

Jon Seddon, Feb 08

8.Righteous *** 27, (26m) The first route off the block at the right hand end. The obvious bolted crack..... A great line. Don't rupture yourself!

Al Ritchie, Apr 08

9. Fractious* 24, (10m) The route on the wall before the big ugly crack..... A feisty little thing.

Al Ritchie, Apr 08

The Pearly Gates Revival

The Pearly Gates is an ideal Winter climbing venue with many classic routes and top quality rock. The crag is located in the Mt. Aspiring National Park near the junction of the East and West branches of the Matukituki River, directly across from Hellsgate. The Pearly Gates has two cliff sections. The back half of the cliff is visited rarely, but the routes are good and the potential is awesome. The front half of the cliff is where the current action is happening. It is a toe of rock over 60 meters high and about 40 meters wide at the base. There is still much potential. 14 clips and a 60 meter rope for the crag will see you right.


Glen on the first pitch of Gecko

Early pioneer, David Hiddleston made a great start to the area with the classics, Gecko and Dux of Paradise. Rock climbing, long multi-pitch routes, on stunning rock, in the warm sun, appealed to local veteran climbers Glen Einam and Greg Johnston, too. The front crag is currently sporting 10 long climbs with most about 30 meters. The mix of grades between 16 and 21 will keep most climbers happy. With easy access and loads of excellent routes, The Pearly Gates is definitely worth a visit. Move over Phoebe Creek, this is the new classic crag of the upper Matukituki valley.

Greg on the first pitch of Life After Forty


Recently, Glen and Greg have added:

Going With The Flow ** - Pitch 1, grade 17 - 30 meters, 10 clips with DBA; Pitch 2, grade 16 - 30 meters, 9 clips with DBA

Life After Forty ** - Grade 20, 30 meters, 9 clips with DBA

Twisted ** - Pitch 1, grade 18 - 20 meters, 10 clips with DBA; Pitch 2 - grade 19 - 15 meters, 5 clips with DBA; Pitch 3 - 20 meters, Grade 21, 10 clips with DBA; Pitch 1 and 2 are easily combined. Pitch 3 is ultra classic.


Greg on the first pitch of Twisted

DIY Rock Climbing

Keen on new routing? Here are a few simple tips for the DIY Rock Climber.

1. Be sure access to your new route is easy. This task may require a bit of landscaping like digging a flat platform for belays, trimming trees or cutting tracks.

2. Clean your route. With a good brush, sweep the whole rock surface a meters width on both sides of your selected climbing line. Then, micro clean the hand and foot holds with chalk and a toothbrush. Don't forget to clean extra good all around the holds. A blow tube helps get rid of dust on holds and pockets.

3. Next, top rope your intended line to learn where the bolts should be drilled. A good bolt placement will be easy to clip on lead and the quick draw will sit nicely on the rock without abrasion and without side loading the caribeaners.

4. With all that work complete, drilling the bolts is the easy part. Or is it? Remember the following points when drilling bolts.
- Make sure the rock is good and solid. Avoid flakes, cracks and detached blocks by 200 millimeters.
- Create a flat surface for the bolt hanger to sit against the rock.
- Drill the bolt hole perpendicular to the rock. Check for 90 degree right angles on both the vertical and horizontal planes.
- Over drill the hole so that it can be pounded into the rock and out of site if it is in the wrong place.

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club Working Bee

Special thanks goes out to club members that cut and marked tracks to many of the popular crags.

It is especially gratifying to have finally marked the track through to Ice House, Bake House and Kai Whaka Pai crags. Additionally, the tracks to all crags within The Cutting area including Falcon Steep have been tidied and re-marked.

The next tracks to get work are Sunnyside and the Hightside loop track.

Access Issue: Icehouse, Bakehouse, Kai Whaka Pai

Access to all crags on North side of Mt. Aspiring Road to include Icehouse, Bakehouse and Kai Whaka Pai is through private property. Although the crags themselves are either in recreation reserves or in areas with DOC conservation covenants, the access route to crags is through the farmer's paddock which is private property.

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc., is requesting all climbers to respect the traditional private property rights of the farmer. Access is a privilege, don't stuff it up.

- No Dogs. This is rule #1. There is stock in the paddocks year round.
- During lambing season, stay out of the paddock. See rule #1.
- Always use the public toilet at Main Cliff.
- Stick to the track that contours the edge of the cliffs.
- When in doubt, stay out. The paddock is private property. Respect the farmer's rights when the paddock is filled with animals.

East Ledges at Diamond Lake

During a wet depressing Winter, Glen Einam and Greg Johnston explored the sunny east terrace of Diamond Lake. There is an amazing Lancewood forest on the steep cliffs above the Bake House. Access the area from the Diamond Lake car park walking past the lake and Diamond access track. Follow the track down through the center of the terrace until you get even with top cliff, look for boulder with cairn.

We got busy and put in several anchors on both cliffs, cut tracks and dug a trench across the top cliff to divert the water from running down the face. The project was very ambitious, if not down right greedy. The rest is infamous. Others are getting into the act and the crag is slowly getting developed. The crags have terrific morning sun and afternoon shade for Summer and Winter. A track needs to be cut from the right side of the Bake House up through to lower crag. There is loads of potential for keen route setters.

Upper Crust Crag (top crag pictured, routes from left to right)

No Name – grade 18 - 6 bolts w/DBA. author unknown. nice climbing up detached pillar and crack.

The Family Jewels - grade 19 - 7 bolts w/DBA.
Steep dihedral crack system. Greg Johnston '08

High Society - grade 22 ** 6 bolts w/ DBA, 17 meters
This fashionable little number is a touch intimidating but good grips and easy clips will see you through the steep face climbing. Greg Johnston '08

Dodge Ball – grade 23** 7 Bolts w/ DBA, approx. 20meters
Murray Ball claimed this main arête feature to be his project. Without knowledge, Greg started bolting the route. After a bit of argument and confusion, Glen Einam confirmed the line was Murray’s pick, his project, end of the discussion. Murray’s rope suddenly appeared on the project and it sat there in the rain. Greg decided to finish bolting the route ground up. And much later, Murray belayed Greg for the first ascent. Remember the 3 rules of Dodge Ball, Duck, Dive and Dodge. Greg Johnston ‘08

My Precious Crag (bottom)

Lord of the Anchor Rings - grade 20* 6 clips w/ DBA, 15 meters
The obvious first route to go in after drilling lots of fancy new anchors. Let the obsession begin. Climb the nice face and crack system. Glen Einam '07

Project - Arete with steep pocketed start. Greg Johnston

No Name Yet - grade 23 *
Thin crack and steep face climbing started by Glen Einam and finished by Scott Standard '07

New Routes at Diamond Lake

Picture Perfect, Grade 29 *** Approximately 16 meters, 6 clips with DBA, Murray Ball '08

Murray Ball’s sysetmatic approach and his commitment to climb this line is legendary. He spent months cleaning and working the route with every move, every hand hold and every foot hold accounted on paper. Murray's success came late in the Summer after finally building up his power endurance enough to recruit both his muscles and the multiple climbing partners necessary to achieve his l’obsession.

From Chat up ledge, climb out left and up the overhanging crack feature.

Clubs On Campus, Grade 26 ** Approximately 15 meters, 6 bolts with DBA Greg Johnston '08

COC is the first route you see on the approach to the diamond. It climbs out the broken overhanging rock and up the steep well featured face. COC is the culmination of a summer's worth of work, cleaning and landscaping the whole area on and around Spade slab. In the end, it came up trumps.

Cattle Yard Crag

A bunch of us went up to Cattle yard crag for a bit of an explore of one of Wanakas least visited crags. We found it to be a worthwhile excursion and climbed most of the routes in the guide and had a little explore of tha cave system below 'Piping the Cab' which proved to be quite extensive.

Ed Liddle had his drill up there and was kind enough to re equip some of the crappy belay chains and anchors.

There are new lower off rings on Gorillas in the Schist, Bathroom refugee, and some other bits and peices.

Gorillas in the Schist is a classic for sure and some of the others of worthy of more attention and the place would only benifit from more traffic. There is also heaps of potential for more routes.

WRCC General Meeting 11 Feb 2008

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
General Meeting
February 11 2008

Attendance: Greg Johnston, Matt Squires, Callum Urquhart, Anna Simmons, John Hammond, Scott Standen, Sean O’Connor, Ben Eyers, Jessica Winter, Ken Super, Jenny Rayment, Anthony Davidson, Jeromy Wilson, Stu Blennerhasset, Dave Cassaidy, Pat Deavoll, Henry

Apologies: Jon Sedon, Ian McNabb, Toby Johnston

General Business:
- New member Stu Blennerhasset of Basecamp discussed discounts for associated members. Also, he offered continued support for the club in the following areas: advocacy, storage locker, gear support (waratahs, stiles, etc.) and fundraising box. He mentioned there would be sport-climbing competitions in the near future.
- Discussed climbing areas that WRCC would support with gear contribution. Cromwell Gorge was approved and recommended to be put into future Wanaka guide. The greater Wye Creek area was discussed and it was decided that it is not in the Wanaka Catchment area and really fits into Wakatipu/Queenstown Climbing Club. Therefore, we discussed the possibilities of a coop situation where we would support their members to put up new routes in Wanaka if they would support our members with similar gear contribution support.
- A top priority issue was discussed concerning climbing areas from Bake House/Family Crag area and to Kai Whaka Pai. Landowner John McRae was invited to speak to our members but did not attend the meeting. John has been recently upset with climbers disregard for farming operations. Two specific examples are dogs in the paddocks with stock present including lambs and climbers arguing with the farmer about their rights to be there because the crags are in the guidebook. It was decided that WRCC must take a proactive stance with the farmer and DOC. The club agreed that we need the following: 1. Stiles placed over fences. It was suggested we might acquire them from DOC. 2. Signage at the area entrance that indicates private property, no dogs allowed, etc. 3. The track through to Kai Whaka Pai should be marked with waratahs. WRCC will need to consult with DOC and farmer related to these issues.
- Discussed putting signs at Mt. Iron climbing areas requesting climbers to avoid loud profanities. John Hammond taking the lead to get the project done.
-Idea to have a select guide that is less expensive.
-Idea to have an Internet guide where people can download a select amount of routes for a certain amount of money.
-Club is pleased new the new DOC toilets at Hospital Flat and Riverside. Thanks to Ian McNabb for fixing up toilet at Roadside.

AGM President/Treasurers Report

Presidents Report:
- The distribution of guides is going well. We have approximately 375 books left out of 1000. We are selling approximately 250 books per year. It is critically important that we get through those books before introducing a new guide so to that we can finance the next printing. We will need to start considering the next guide but at our current rate of sell, it looks like we won’t need the new guide until the summer of 2010.
- Membership is well up from last year due to an amazing effort from Susie Meyer who went out of her way to call, cajole and coerce membership - job well done Susie.
- Jerry Murray-Orr and Simon Middlemass started up the clubs first Web Blog, which seems to be going pretty well. We will need to discuss the future direction of this site.
- Crag activity has been good with a number of members doing some good work to include: new routing, re-bolting projects, crag and track maintenance.
- The club has done a good job keeping up with demand for hardware and the club drill is in good working order.

Treasurers Report:

- Membership went from 18 to 35 members bringing in nearly $1000
- Income was just over $6,000, which included subscriptions, guide and hardware revenue.
- Expenditure was nearly $3000, spent mostly on hardware

New Routes at Diamond Lake - Spade Slab

SPADE SLAB is the newly cleaned and polished central feature right of the Diamond Slab. Access the Spade Slab routes by rappel to DBA belay station.

JOKERS GONE WILD, grade 20, approx. 20 meters with DBA, Greg Johnston '08
Start on Venus in Furs and then traverse right following the weakness up onto the Spade Slab and up the nice sharp arete.

BROKEN HEART, grade 19, approx. 20 meters with DBA, Greg Johnston '08
Start at DBA belay station on Spade Slab. Climb the left route up nice slab with a testy finish.

ONE EYED JACK, grade 21, 20 meters with DBA, Greg Johnston '08
Start at DBA belay station on Spade Slab. Climb the right route up nice slab to a bulging arete with good holds. A couple or three tricky, if not tough, moves will see you through to the anchors.

TEN BUCKS IS COOL is extended and rebolted with stainless bolts and hangers and DBA
VENUS IN FURS is rebolted with stainless bolts and hangers with DBA

Annual General Meeting

The Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc. AGM for 2006/2007 year is 7:00 PM, Monday 11 February, 2008. The meeting is at the Alberttown Tavern in the conservatory. Subscription for adults is $25, students $15. All Welcome.

New Crag at Poison Creek

As you turn off the SH into the Queensberry Hills Subdivision there is a crag up to your left (behind new house). It is the obvious outcrop with the large overhang and diagonal crack. Park at the first bend in the road, jump the fence into the Doc Land and follow your nose. Easy access to the top of the crag around to the R.

There is currently only 1 completed route and a few anchors but keen to see some more up there. So get up there with your drills.

The rock is general very good and there is potential for up to 10-15 routes probably. We have only touched the right hand wall so far and there are a bunch of obvious line to develope. The less steep rock has a fair bit of lichen but cleans easily.

Groovy Gecko - Grade 19, Start in the middle of the main R hand wall. Up through small ledges on steep ground and into obvious corner. Stem corner to rings. 7b, double ring anchor.

There are anchors on the short but harder face to the R, Project Ed Liddle.

There are some steeper routes for someone strong and the lefthand cave hasnt been touched.
Lots of bouldering in the area below which Jon Seddon has been exploring.

Big Little Wall

Ink Blot Test - grade 25 ** 8 bolts? w/fancy clip DBA ~ 22 meters GJ '07

What do you see in the ink blot? OK ya, a pile of rubble. What else?

A worthy scramble on good stone.

Something for a rainy day

Roger the roofer 27

The Alcove - Extension of Bob the builder. saves the best bit till last....

Back jump to Bob to clean. End is second bolt over the roof. I'll sort the anchor sometime....

B D 07

New Climb at The Crack House

Slip Through The Cracks - grade 25 ** - 5 bolts DBA Greg Johnston '07

Exciting route between the two cracks, steep, techno and powerful.

Little Big Wall

INK BLOT TEST 25 * 20 meters 7 bolts DBA
Climb just right of the obvious water streak on the small wall right of the big wall. High quality climbing on great rock, too bad about the small break in the route but still worth the scramble. Greg Johnston '07

The Alcove

OLE 18* The first route you come to to the L of Dr Holdfinder. A good warm-up but nice climbing also with a slightly perplexing finish. Slab, crack and ramp. Nick Cradock '07

The Diamond

A lot of work has been done on and around the Daimond Lake walls over the past 12 months so its definitely worth a revisit if you haven't been for a while. The usual crew have also done some water channeling at the top of the Diamond so it dries faster after rain and earlier in the spring.

GET A JOB 18 An old route on the left side of The Diamond which has been rebolted and extended for the second time to 40m, with a flash new quick-clip chain under the roof. 25m to "Chat-up Ledge" and a further 15m to the chains. Can be done as 1 or 2 pitches with 25m rap to the ground using the ledge. Nick Cradock, Glen Einam '07

CORNERED 18 The right leaning corner from the Chat-up Ledge. Please do the following...bridging, face climbing and jamming layaways. Finishes at Get A Job chains.

PROJECT Ropes on overhanging crack from Chat-up Ledge. Murray Ball

FEELING RAMPANT 18 Another older classic on the right hand wall that has been rebolted and extended to 30m. Nick Cradock, Glen Einam '07

The Conservatory

SHOWTIME 17/19* A new line to the right of Sweet Sixteen. Starts on the middle right of the wall at the layback flake. Climb the black streak on slab to chains (17), extend a runner and launch through the roof and up the arete (19). Nick Cradock '07

SUNNY MONDAYS 26* (center route between CS and SS)
Gotta love 'em and this pumpy addition to a great winter spot. Greg Johnston '06

Tiny Town

Tiny Town is the Midway Crag between Main Cliff and Highside. The brilliant name of the crag was coined by Nic Craddock who was having a particulary beligerent day and dissed the place completely. Good on ya Nic. These routes are good in the Winter and Summer afternoons.

The 3 routes on the right side of the crag are all around grade 18 with 3 bolts and DBA. They are best climbed consecutively . The 2 routes in the middle of the crag are 22/23, 2 bolts with SBA. Greg Johnston and Glen Einam '07.

The Pearly Gates

LIFE AFTER FORTY, 30 meters 9 bolts w/DBA grade 20 ** Greg Johnston, Glen Einam '07
Right of TDOP, Great climb on amazing rock.

GOING WITH THE FLOW, 60 meters 19 bolts w/DBA grade 16 * Glen Einam, Greg Johnston '08
Pitch 1 is 30M with 10 bolts and DBA. Pitch 2 is 30M with 9 bolts and DBA. The route starts right of LAF. It is the easiest route at the crag so it is a nice warm up and provides good access to other routes.

Tombstone crack

When did the middle fall out of the tomb stone crack?

There is a considerable peice missing, in peices on the ground. maybe in the recent earthquake. It has unfortunatally changed the route quite a bit and i think made it a touch harder.

Kai Whaka Pai (Lower Wall), Diamond lake

Take the regular approach to Kai Whaka Pai to the far fenceline. Go through the gate, turn R and follow stream for 60m then enter the bush at the base of the obvious clean wall. Routes described from L to R:

JOURNEY THROUGH TIME* 16
The first route on the lefthand slab. Ancient dirt was removed to uncover this recent classic. Follows nice thin edges. Greg Johnston '06

SPLIT DECISION 19
To the R of above route. Scamper up the slab and attack the arête. Beware, you will need to make a decision! Greg Johnston '06

GLEN’S GROTTO 17 *
Head around the corner to main belay area. Boulder up onto big ledge then bridge into the obvious corner tending R to top of wall. There is also access to and from the upper wall using these top chains. Glen Einam ‘06

FOOD FOR THOUGHT 20 **
Climb the finger crack, swing L then up through steepening ground onto arête and crack above to chains. Nick Cradock ‘06

GOURMET CRACK 23 **
Who said Wanaka had no crack climbing. Starts out steep, pull over the block and finish on easier ground utilizing the twin cracks. Murray Ball ‘06

FEEDING FRENZY 21 **
Starts up the far R crack to under the small roof. Move R and up then back L onto slab to finish. Nick Cradock, Murray Ball ‘06

Hotline Area, Diamond Lake

These are the routes around to the right of the main Diamond Wall. Look for the handline to get into the alcove at the base of the routes. Modifications to existing routes by Nick Cradock and Murray Ball '07, from L-R:

BIG AND CHOSSY BEDROOM SAUSSY has been bolted to the Penance belay. It’s worth doing and you do not need to offwidth climb.

PENANCE has been cleaned up with a new direct start. 7 bolts, very good.

HEY GEORGE corner has been cleaned (again) with DBB at placed at the same height & on same wall as Hotline belay. Now it’s possible to just climb bottom half of Hey George which is a very good stemming corner at grade 18. Hotline can now be accessed from this Hey George belay if you want to top rope.
Note: this belay is also the new rap line for FFF or anything on upper wall if you only have a 50m rope.
HG top belay to ground is 30m.

FUCKITY FUCK FUCK has also been extended to Hey George ledge. Now 12 bolts and 30m
The whole wall now gives very good 2 pitch climbs of various grades.................Nick Cradock, Murray Ball, ’06.

SHITTY SHIT SHIT 16 (right of FFF, extension above Hidden)
An extension of Hidden, originally put in ground up by Glen Einam and miscredited to Paul Rogers who does not even like the rock in Wanaka much less the quality of this route. It is not as bad as it sounds. Climb the whole route in one pitch. Greg Johnston '07

Rock Hudson, Diamond Lake

Routes described from L to R:

THING 1 19 *
To the R of Riddled With Aids. Head up and swing L onto the Ledge. Then tricky moves to some larger holds and moving R to chains. Murray Ball, Nick Cradock

THING 2 18 *
Shares top chain with T1. Balancy moves to start, then thru steep ground and climbing L to chains. Murray Ball, Nick Cradock

CAFE CHATTER 17
The far R route on the crag near the track. Excellent steep start, then up on a series of ledge systems tending R to a steep finish. Murray Ball, Nick Cradock.

SOLANCE 16 The right most route on this wall. Nick Cradock, Murray Ball '06

The Ice House

Also just through the gate from the main Hospital Flat car park. The wall on your left before you reach The Bakehouse.

THE PRICK 19
Climb the face and pull through small roof to the left of Slash & Grab. Nock Cradock '07

SLASH AND GRAB 17 *
On the detached wall below Falcon Screech at the far R end of cutting. Route takes the L leaning crack into the upper wall tending L to DBA.

THE CUTTING EDGE 20 *
Shorter route that climbs the R face and arête then also L to DBA. Like all routes in The Cutting the rock can be damp during the winter months but a shady haven in the intense summer heat.

The Bakehouse (Aka The Family Crag)

From the main Hospital Flat carpark, cross the road and through the gate. NO DOGS PLEASE this is private farm land. Go through the dip on your left is...

Climbs from L-R:

H5B3 8
The first short slab which was painstakingly dug out of the hillside. On your L when you walk out of the dip and onto the terrace below the crag. Great for kids. Ian McNabb ‘06

WHERE THE HELL’S LITTLE RIVER 11
An old rebolted route also recently cleaned. Sweet warm-up for novices and first time leaders. 3B up the short buttress. Steve Henry, Marie Horlor

CURIOUSLY SHEEPISH 14
The first route on the next wall along. From the belay climb thin seam to a ledge at half way then steeply up to finish at chains. 5B. Sam Leach ‘06

STEALING CANDY FROM A BABY 17 *
All the grunt work in establishing this route was done by John Hammond prior to a stint at Mt. Arapiles. While away the usual suspects seized the project and laced it up. Climbs the slab to roof where you reach high, bridge left and pull for glory. Then tend R to finish. Murray Ball, Nick Cradock ‘06

PROJECT The roof and arête. 1B. Murray Ball

GENETIC BETRAYAL 17 *
A fine line to the R of the roof and up the R facing corner. Attack the L wall near the top and mantle onto the ledge to Wanaka’s first double ring bolt anchor. Nick Cradock, Murray Ball ‘06

GROOVER 17 *
The next R facing corner. Crank over the first small roof then into the corner. A perplexing finish on the top slab. Nick Cradock, Murray Ball, Glen Einam ‘06

SEAM STRESS 23 *
Climbs the steep overhanging wall following a thin seam with the odd bit of stress. Once through the difficulties follow the slab L to chains of previous route. Murray Ball ‘06

GET OFF THAT COW 15
50m along from Seam Stress is an obviously cleaned crack and tall slab. From the belay ledge, awkwardly climb the crack and push through the bulge before veering left to more bolts on the ever-steepening and slab. 4B. Martin Hess, Mark & Amy ‘04

MILK AND COOKIES 12
Cruise up the wondering slab to the R. Gain the ledge at ¾ height then delicately up steeper ground to anchors. Ian McNabb, Jerry Murray-Orr ‘06

2 PROJECTS John Hammond

MAD ABOUT COWS 16
A bit further along the crag is a well cleaned slab and good belay platform. Ascend the wall, tending right then sharply left again through crux. Chill on the ledge before a couple more moves see's you at the top. 5B DBA Ian McNabb '07

DARK HORSE 18
Another long standing project gets completed. On the steep black wall 300m from the gate at the far R of The Bakehouse. In the centre of the wall, make some nice moves left into a layback crack, up into a corner system then rockover the small roof to glory. 8B DBA Sam Leach, Jerry Murray-Orr '07

PROJECTS: To the L and R of Dark Horse.

Car Park Crag

Three new routes have gone up opposite the turn-off to West Wanaka and the grades run (L-R) 17, 17, 16. All three climbs feature gentle starts cruising up to steeper headwalls.

RHYTHM AND BLUES 17 Starts with a low crux up easy ground to some interesting layaways. Greg Johnson '07

UNNAMED 17 Route in the middle of the face climbing over a small overhang into some tricky face climbing and has a sweet petzl clip at the anchors - fantastic as a true begginners lead.

SOD OFF 16 The route to the right runs through a series of easy ledges to more challenging layaways and crimpers. Rich Barlow, Ian Gosling '07

They're good accessible routes for warm ups, 1st leads and showing off to all the passer's-by who park up to watch.

Poison Creek

Poison Creek is on the Luggate-Cromwell Highway, near Queensberry. 8kms past Luggate turn right into the flash new Queensberry Hills subdivision, follow the road around to beneath the obvious large crag. Park here and look for the cairns to gain the various tracks. The Lefthand side of the main wall has the following routes from L to R.

D.I.Y.D.N.A 16
At the far L of the main crag is a neat route following 45° ledges on sound rock. Start up the belay gully beyond the large Manuka tree. 4B Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05

SCOTTISH ANGST 18
The first route on the wall and we copped some wrath from the unofficial Mayor of Queensberry. Start R of Manuka tree. Takes edgy line through bulge into easier ground to DBA. 5B. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05

PROJECT Russell Braddock
PROJECT Russell Braddock

To access the right hand wall either climb "Scimitar"wall or look for the large boulder below the crag and to the R of this is the start of the bush track, which gives access to routes on the middle slab and walls above. Routes described from L to R:

Scimitar, 20m Grade 13 (Kat West)
Great beginners route and and ideal first lead. At the far right of the main wall follow bolts up slabby corner pull over arete and continue up slab and left corner to a large cave. 7 bolts, chains at belay. Abeil off, Watch for your rope on the sharp arete. Also good for linking the R and L areas of the crag. Second pitch was also climbed by Bryan Moore through steeper ground on natural gear to chains of below, short but sweet.

Project (open), To the right of scimitar, follows easy slab to very grunty roof, follows seam through roof. most of the good holds fell off but will go to strong contender. Abandoned by Bryan Moore

PARENTAL GUIDANCE 16
Starts on the slab L of CM. Delicately wander to the undercling and obvious block then over steeper ground to the belay. The pitch above this is a project. Jerry Murray-Orr ’06

CARDINAL MOVEMENTS 15
From the toe of the obvious slab climb the line just left of arête keeping to the slab. Then through steeper broken ground to finish under small roof. From here it is possible to climb Russ’s Gully to top of wall. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘06

SCOTTY'S PIGEONS 15
Either climbed as 2nd pitch to above route or accessed by heading R and scrambling loose ground from base of wall. Climb the gully slabs to slight overhang near top. Pull through to top of cliff and chains to R. Russell Braddock ‘05

Another new route at poison creek. located on separate block to the left of the main wall. Enter from directly below crag throught the scrub. Track marked by cairne on large rock.

Another searing hyperclassic Grade 19 *
Starts in main corner and steps right accross balancy move between 2nd and 3rd bolt to gain arete. Easier ground (18) to steeper finish and ring bolts. (Quentin Smith and Ed Liddle, 07)

Welcome feedback in the grade as it has an unusual but excellent crux. could be 18 or could be 20 .

Route to left directly up corner and over roof is a project.

Waterfall Creek,

New Route half way between the Neck and Makarora right next to the road. combines well with a session at the Hawea slabs.

(untitled) Bolted, Chains at top. Grade 17 (Bryan Moore)

The route follows a prominent water worn arete to the right of the main waterfall from a small ledge. A more direct start is a project with a possible first pitch from lake level.

enjoy.

sunny side

LIFE IN THE FAT LANE ( direct finish ) 27
from last bolt climb direct up to chains.
not alot of grips....
Bruce Dowrick

Crack House

WHAT LIES BENEATH 24 (1st face climb left of CC)
You may need to dig deep on this one. Glen Einam '06Things you Kneed - 26/27 (formerly Enigma)
desperate little boulder problem
Hard second clip dont blow it !
Bruce Dowrick 07

UNNAMED 24
Up at the top L of the Crack House, to the R of At Your Leisure is another wondering line. On the R of the detached wall, up steeply on crimpers then swing L and traverse out to chains. Greg Johnston, Glenn Einam ‘06

SLIP THRU THE CRACKS 25* 5 bolts DBA.
This route is between Karearea and Gastroman. Its a bit techo offering steep powerful moves on good rock. Greg Johnston '07

iron side

The free mantle extended remix - 24
as it was gonna be .... goes to top of the cliff.

Iron Curtain

I may be old but at least im crusty ,extension aka ( Mezzanine ) 26 continue past chain and 3 more bolts .
Bruce Dowrick 06
The bastard from Gunn road extension aka ( The complete bastard ) 27 fine fiesty finnish.
Jon Sedon ,Bruce dowrick 06

Middle Curtain

Right of Dablam is...
Mine Mine Mine - Grade 25
The line following faint prow through very steep country.
Bruce Dowrick '07

Further Right is...
AP32 - Grade 23
More steep country with massive jugs and excellent roof moves.
Bruce Dowrick '07
Hoover - Grade 20
The warm-up route. Still, a fine line tending right through some nice features.
Greg Johnson '06
Pick Pocket - Grade 28
Currently the right most route. Bouldery pocket climbing, if only your fingers were smaller.
Jon Sedon '06

Abover Hoover and Pick Pocket is a 2nd pitch....
Manuever - Grade 25
Packs a punch for a short pitch. Watch for loose rock if wondering off route!
Greg Johnson '06

The Next Best Thing

SPIRAL STAIRCASE 18(Left of CITA)
A good warm up for this crag. Don't spin out. Greg Johnston '07


BADGERS WILL RULE THE WORLD 22
Standing at the base of the crag it is the most L route of the climbs on the right hand side of the crag. Gain the sidepull/finger jam and charge up and R into steep but juggy terrain to a partial rest below the bulge. Out through this on good but hard to see holds, into corner system then L to DBA. 5B but the 10mm under the roof may get removed to enhance the excitement. Rich Tribe, Jerry Murray-Orr March'07

As you can see from this photo of Greg bolting Spiral Staircase, a lot of work goes into cleaning these routes at Mt Iron. Most of the routes at Next Best Thing have literally been unearthed, but in time they will be mega-classic urban ascents.

The Far Side

The Farside crag can be accessed by parking opposite Roadside crag and following the deer fence on your left, through the paddock for 300m. All these new routes are on the left end of the steep grey wall that is Farside. New routes from R to L.

BLOODLINE 19*
Left of Girls On The Run. Steep wall into bridging 'peapod'. Break right, up wall and finish left to chains. Nick Cradock '07

PAMS INSTANT 17
On the face and arete on the short wall L of above and right of Fine Ground and Short Black. Nick Cradock '07

The next two routes also access the big steep wall above:

YANKEE DOODLE DANDY 18 Short steep arete to the R of Footrot Flats. Nick Cradock '07

FOOTROT FLATS 16
Face climbing up to a small dihedral feature, Greg Johnston '07

GRINDER 23 (Above Fine Ground)
Start at Belay Anchor above Fine Ground and climb up through the steep bulges. Best as a second pitch but it can be done as one pitch with long runners. Greg Johnston '07

My First Route in NZ

BADGERS WILL RULE THE WORLD 22ish

A new route at "The Next Best Thing" on Mt. Iron. Welcome to Wanaka Rich :-)
Standing at the base of the crag it is the most L route of the climbs on the right hand side of the crag. Gain the sidepull/finger jam and charge up and R into steep but juggy terrain to a partial rest below the bulge. Out through this on good but hard to see holds, into corner system then L to DBA. 5B but the 10mm under the roof may get removed to enhance the excitement. Rich Tribe, Jerry Murray-Orr March'07

The Abyss

Check out this climbers blog about a recent visit to Wanaka. http://www.dreamtimeimages.com/blog/2007/03/31/new-routing-in-wanaka/
Obviously somewhere we all need to visit & it looks like plenty of room for more quality lines. Excellent exploration by WRC Club member Ben Ayres.

Join The Club

Join the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc. and help support the maintenance and establishment of rock climbing and conservation throughout the Upper Clutha area.

Send details and $25 to:

WRCC, Inc.
PO Box 427
Wanaka
Attn: Treasurer

Highside

EDGE OF REALITY - Warm Leatherette Buttress - Grade 24 **
Route inspiration and First Ascent belong to Glen Einam with Greg Johnston in tow. Nice slabby face climbing followed by good steep pocketed rock, '06.

EMOTICON 23* Highside (between SVR20 and Bula)
A 2 part crux provides a nice range of excellent facial contortions. Greg Johnston '06

SENTINAL 25 Watchtower Boulder
Steep and tricky with a wicked dyno catch. Watch out for the falcons on this route. Greg Johnston '06

PATHFINDER 12 - Watchtower Boulder
A fun lead for beginners. Greg Johnston '07

Dunnyside

Two new routes at Dunnyside care of "the kiwi crimper"

John Macullum's crack on the left, in the middle is...
Exodus 26 **
Steep climbing on jugs mostly, with a touch of crack climbing at the top. When the crack stops crank left to slab and chains. An alternative finish out right will bump the grade two or three notches...so go for it!!!!

Further to the right is...
The John 27 ***
Steep and hard crack climbing ...brilliant route!!

The Neck at Lake Hawea

This is about a 25min drive from Wanaka. Once you reach the windy section of road before The Neck, keep one eye on the rock to your left and the other on the road. 80m past the steep slabs described in the latest guidebook is a bunch of cruisey new routes all developed in the summer of ‘06. Pull into the obvious grassy bay on your left when heading towards the coast, and park at the base of the routes. You will now be directly under the climbs. Accross the road and down the 4WD track is some great swimminf too.

Climbs from R to L:
RUBBER NECKING 13
A short route on the far R of the crag. The routes here create a lot of attention from passersby. 3B DBA. Dave Winterburn

STEVE’S ONE 14
A nice climb with some high steps and rock fins. 4B DBA. Steve Moffat

THE GREAT KIWI JANDAL BLOWOUT 16 *
Starts up the steep wall, over the block and onto the slab above. Finishes at the chains of PC Gone Mad. 5B DBA. Climbers beware when ascending in Jandals. Dave Winterburn, Jerry Murray-Orr

PC GONE MAD 15 *
Easy terrain to the first clip then delicate edging and smears up the long slab to chains. 4B DBA. Please leave your political correctness in the car. Jerry Murray-Orr

PROJECT At the far left of this wall. A few bolts and biners. Am waiting until the lake warms up before finishing this one. Jerry Murray-Orr